An Unexpected Need for Lemon Oil

I was at Inçerlik (pronounced, Injerlik) Air Base in Adana, Turkey--far south central Turkey. Stationed for a year in Balikesir, midway between Izmir and Istanbul in the mountains to the west, I traveled Turkey by bus all the time. To travel by bus in Turkey gives travelers a new meaning of homespun courtesy.

In Adana on E90/D750 highways are many places dedicated advertising for the Bus systems and travel (our version of Greyhound). Barkers stand, sit or walk and shout the name of the line they work and this day I chose Koç (Coach) as my limousine to visiting Göreme Valley wine country and Caves in Cappadocia (Kapadokya in Turkish)--located in Central Turkey, 6 hours close to Ankara--the capital. There is the Göreme National Park (Göreme Milli Parklar) that one can see amazing rock formations at Cappadocia, Nevishir, Turçe, and the wines are a favorite since Lydia of old was a famous wine producing area in Turkey. McGovern in 2003 relates that historically, Lydia (Turkey) was the "Stomping grounds" of Dionysis and Euripides, page 241, well known drinkers--author and god.

The trip was long and a bit boring; however, boring became bizarre by trip's end when the (frequent pausing) bus' stopping and starting to pick up passengers along the way introduced another type of clientele. As highway D300 approached the driver stopped and we (I am now part of the traveling group with the limited Turkish I have learned) picked up a herder--goatherd-- with 15 of his finest sales going to the same place... they rumble aboard. Noise and scents were not the only interesting part of this journey; it was fall, about 80 degrees outside of the bus and the driver did not have air conditioning. So, as the goats entered, the goatherd paid for their transportation, the riding group began to mumble and the closeness of the patrons grew exponentially.

Everyone grew weary of the ambiance quickly and just down the road (they had been our guests for about forty-five minutes) the driver began his slowdown approach for more passengers. I was only hoping it was not more farm travel. However, just as the bus lurched to a stop the goatherd and all of his spending change removed them selves from the bus... The driver made sure all evidence of our friends' ride was cleaned and we could proceed; he came back with two large bottles of lemon scented lotion for the passengers to put that part of the trip to rest; and as disagreeable as it was, after a point, the driver said, "Bu tekrarlana olabilir!" Or, "If available, it could be repeated." Ah, Koç! We arrived at Cappadocia, Nevishir, Turçe about dusk. I shook off the dip of our experience, and trying not to bleat a path for a shower and room I laughed most of the night.

…I am laughing still.

McGovern, P. E. (2003). Ancient wine: The search for the origins of viniculture. Princeton University Press.